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Friday, May 31st – Muides-sur-Loire to Amboise, 4437 km
Things are unfolding slower than planned today. We make it to Chambord by 9:45 and tour the place until 11. We paid 30F to get in and we made the most of it. It is quite empty inside, having been plundered repeatedly from the French Revolution onwards, but just the immense size of it and the artistry of the building itself holds one’s attention. It was built for Francois I of France who commissioned Leonardo da Vinci to design many of its elements, including its amazing double helix staircases. The views of the canal from the chateau are as impressive as the reflection of the building in the water. 
It is lunchtime by the time we make the 15 km to Cours-Cheverny to see the Serigny Chateau, so it is closed until 2:30. We detour to see the exteriors of two other smaller palaces, the modest Toussay Palace and the Beauregard Chateau. The Serigny Chateau is still owned by the same family that built it almost 600 years ago. A duke, I believe, still lives on the second floor, and because of this it is the best furnished of the chateaus of the Loire. The decoration and design are inferior to Chambord but the display of antique furniture is worth the 25F. 
When we finish at Serigny it is almost four. We race to Chernonceau, the elegant chateau that sits on arches over the river Cher. On the way we pass through Fougeres-sur-Bievres which has a more medieval-looking chateau. There is only time for a couple photos of the exterior again. It is difficult to cycle fast, which we must as Chernonceau is 35 km from Serigny. We have a tailwind again but my legs are exhausted from yesterday’s record-setting effort.
We reach Chernonceau on time. It isn’t visible from the gates, where we would need to leave our bikes and bags unattended while we do the tour well out of sight. Admission is 30F, which would be worth it is we could see the sound and light show so highly recommended in the Let’s Go Guide, but the first one of the season is on June 15, half a month from now. We decide to move on to Amboise where, after a fair deal of searching, we find a youth hostel on an island in the Loire. It is cheap compared to all the high-priced and over-booked accommodation geared to the tour bus tourist crowd.
Amboise has its own chateau too. It looks more like a fortress with a dense row of commercial buildings packed in below it. It looks nothing like the pastoral palaces or heavy, medieval chateaus we have seen before it.
Mike and I splurge on a 79F dinner tonight, but we have worked hard for it – another 108 km today. It is a wonderful meal for the price too, crepes and “salades chaudes” – delicious!
PHOTO 1: Chambord, the largest chateau
PHOTO 2: Chambord, stairwell from exterior
PHOTO 3: view of the canal from Chambord
PHOTO 4: double helix stairwell by Leonardo da Vinci
PHOTO 5: Chateau Toussay
PHOTO 6: Chateau Beauregard
PHOTO 7: Serigny Chateau in Cours-Cheverny
PHOTO 8: back of Serigny Chateau
PHOTO 9: Fougeres-sur-Bievre with moat
PHOTO 10: Fougeres, front entrance
PHOTO 11: Fougeres at rear with stables
PHOTO 12: on the grounds of Fougeres
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