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Sunday, May 12th - Le Puy to Bourg-Argental, 3214 km
The day is wet and grey but full of somber beauty, the wetness making the rock and vegetation look darker and shreds of mist and clouds clinging to the mountainsides. It is a peaceful, spiritual day with low traffic because it is Sunday morning. Normally I'd be in my element, having been raised in this type of environment in the mountains of Canada's west coast, but I am quite upset with myself. While packing, I accidentally discarded Weiland's address and phone number in Berlin and only I realize this now, an hour beyond Le Puy. It’s too far along to turn back.
When I tell Mike he says, "You wally!" a term he uses to describe an incompetent fool. Yes, I am a wally, big time. Still, his use of his silly term makes me chuckle. It has become another of our favourite sayings and certainly kinder and gentler than calling myself an 'ass'. I still feel bad for the rest of the day, even though there is nothing I can do about it now.
Our route today takes us north over two high mountain passes, which are difficult because of the wind. It is drizzling off and on too, but no serious rainfall. The rain seems to be in sympathy with my feelings. Only the wind seems hostile.
Our destination is the town of Bourg-Argental, 79 km from Le Puy, approximately the half way point to Lyons from Le Puy. The town is part way along our descent back into the Rhone Valley. If we were heading east the descent would be much steeper but heading north it is gradual. The town is mostly a drab grey colour, which does not improve when the sun comes out. 
Although the Massif Central scenery has been pleasant and in no way regrettable, there is nothing in this town I could recommend to anyone. We can’t even find a decent restaurant so we eat a 
mediocre meal in our dingy hotel. It serves canned peas with the meal, never a sign of good class.I call home from a phone booth to wish Mom a happy Mother's Day and she gives me bad news. I have given her Power of Attorney to act on my behalf in case of emergencies. I co-own a house with a business partner in Toronto, the one who begged me to pay back the full extent of a loan from my savings just before I left because he was afraid he'd lose his job soon. It turns out that was a lie and he just wanted the money to make an extra payment on our mortgage at my expense. As soon as I left he began harassing my mother with more lies about a financial emergency to get at yet
another chunk of my savings. My mother was frightened by his tactics and surrendered another couple thousand, which is now threatening to bring an end to my trip. I am boiling mad and glad I am not there in person in this state of mind. I ask Mom to call me back at the hotel in a few minutes. I consider my options while walking back to our room. When she calls I tell her not to give him another cent, even in the case of an emergency. He obviously cannot be trusted. I will write him a letter and tell him under threat that he must return the money to my mother immediately. I am not sure how I will convince him to do so, but I am ready to kill. Between my anger and my fears of ending my trip, I have great difficulty going to sleep tonight.
PHOTO 1: Yssingeaux
PHOTO 2: Sainzelles
PHOTO 3: Clavas
PHOTO 4: entering Bourg-Argental
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