20 years ago today - Day 82

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Friday, May 24th - Beaune to Dijon, 3929 km

Today is my turn to wander the town while Mike stays in the room. I know he hates waiting for me but he knows I was under house arrest waiting for him last night. Still, I get up early while he's still in bed and head out to do some photography of the roofs in town. I also visit a bank to change money before returning.

The weather has been sunny and warm the past couple days but today, as we head north to Dijon, the wind is strongly against us. It is difficult to make 20 km/hr and at times we are crawling at less than 15. Still, we only have to cover 43 km to Dijon, over flat ground, so we are there by mid-afternoon.

Dijon is a city of about 150,000, the historic capital of the Burgundy Region. It is a very distinctive city, one I have been anticipating for a while, not knowing exactly what I will see. It certainly isn't disappointing me so far.

Another reason both Mike and I have been eager to be here is because our next hosts from our Gai Pied ad live here. They are a couple - Patrick Knecht and Jean-Marie Brugnoni. They own and manage a confisserie here in Dijon, specializing in Belgian chocolates. They have given us directions to their shop where they are working when until 5. We arrive there at 4:30.

Patrick is 43, with dark brown hair and a warm, handsome face. He is a bit heavier set. Jean-Marie is tall, slender, greying and balding, though only 33. They are both caring and attentive. They have a charming, cozy shop, as nice as any chocolaterie I have been in. Unlike our previous hosts, they both speak slowly and clearly and make an effort to include me in their conversations. For the first time, I understand most of what is being said and don't need to depend on Mike's undependable translations. I have abandoned my fear of trying to speak French. Mike has told them I don't speak any, so they are surprised that I do. Not as surprised as Mike, however. True to our natures, I am now speaking more than him, and our hosts are happy to help me.

Jean-Marie is especially concerned about the sharp pain in my side. He offers to take me to the hospital tomorrow morning, which is a huge weight off my mind. It is such a relief to know someone cares about my well-being.

They have a lovely home near the centre of Dijon. I feel very much at home here, for the temporary period of our stay. They keep bowls of Belgian chocolates around their home, which are addictively delicious. One reason they offered to host us is that they are interested in moving to Canada to open a chocolaterie in the future. It is a small and wonderful world.


PHOTO 1: river scene entering Dijon
PHOTO 2: stained glass window in Dijon Cathedral
PHOTO 3: church in Dijon
PHOTO 4: square in old quarter of Dijon
PHOTO 5: statue in Dijon
PHOTO 6: coloured roof tiles in Dijon