20 years ago today – Day 66

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May 8 – exploring around Cotignac

Michel And Philippe are up early, leaving the master bedroom available for our use. I am up first, as usual. Mike isn’t happy this morning. We had to share a double bed and he says I wheezed or snored half the night, but he hasn’t complained about me these past two months while we shared rooms, only last night when he had to share a bed. I suspect he doesn’t like others being too close to him. He’s not the hugging kind.

Michel has prepared a light breakfast for us once we are done. Afterwards, Philippe drives us into town on his way to buy fresh bread for the restaurant. He shows us where to find the hiking trails through the forests on hills around the town, but just before I set off I realize I have forgotten my camera at the mas. I wait for Philippe and ride back in his land cruiser.

From there I walk back to town taking everything in. All around the sunny landscapes remind me of Van Gogh paintings, the irises, the lavender, the vineyards and the trees. I am in an incredibly good mood. I follow the first trail to its end. at a pond created by a small stream and a 12m waterfall. It’s a big pond for such a small stream. I find Mike sitting on a rock in quiet meditation, writing postcards with his hot pink sunglasses on in the shade of the dell. There is no sign of other human life around except for some ruins of a house near the top of the falls. If it wasn’t for Mike I would probably take a skinny dip.

I climb to the top of the falls to check out the ruins, then return to the town. I climb the narrow cobblestone streets. and back lanes with their stone walls, to the top of the town at the foot of 30m sculptured, limestone cliffs. I shoot a full roll of film to capture the French stonework and vistas of the town from above. Wild red poppies are in bloom everywhere. It is very picturesque and romantic. I wish I had someone special to share such a beautiful place and memory with.

I continue to the top of the cliffs and follow them along to the ruins of two ancient towers before descending to the town again. On the way back to the mas I meet Paul, a young Quebecois who is “itching” (hitchhiking) to a town named Riaz, but he doesn’t know which direction it is. Neither do I. I lead him to the fork in the road near the mas where there are direction signs.

Michel and Philippe have made lunch for us, soup and sandwiches. Mike has arrived back before me and is already eating. I learn that while I was out Benedict returned with a friend from Aix, packed his bags and left without notice. I was hoping to meet him but I suppose we were not meant to.

“Hurry up and eat,” he tells me. “Why?” I ask, but he doesn’t answer. As soon as I am finished he tells me that we have to get in the land cruiser. He has obviously discussed plans with our hosts. “Where are we going?” I ask again, but he ignores me. He’s not in the mood for translating today.


I am sitting in the back with Michel. He is talking with Mike and Philippe but I’m not part of the conversation. I figure out that they are taking us around to see the local sites. The first place we stop, I determine from the sign, is Notre Dame de Grace, a working monastery on a hill top with some impressive views over the countryside. Michel can’t seem to get enough pictures of Mike and I together, though there is nothing “together” about us at the moment.

Then we are taken to the town and chateau at Entrecasteaux. Mike snaps a lot of pictures here on a disposable camera he has purchased, as one of his close friends has family in the area. Lastly, we visit a beautiful waterfall at Sillans-le-Cascade. The water is brightly turquoise. There are many tourists around but it is still lovely and peaceful, until a wind whips up the spray and blows it in our direction.

Back at the mas, as evening falls, Michel prepares another lovely meal, beginning with foie gras (goose pate) and continuing through several courses. And of course there is wine and candles. The French really know how to dine. Now you have had the three finest foods of Provence, Michel tells us, foie gras, truffles and our wine. We thank them again and again. Suddenly Michel silences with a “Ssshhh!” when he hears a car pull into the driveway. Philippe blows out the candles and we sit silently as shadows knock on the door. As soon as their car leaves, Philippe lights the candles again. We don’t want any customers interrupting our special meal, Philippe says. Wednesdays are slow nights anyway, Michel adds.

After dinner we watch a commercial video of one of Michel’s favourite performers, Dalinda, who is one of the favourite inspirations of French lip-syncing drag queen impersonators. The video is done with lush orchestration and lots of glitz.

Michel and Philippe offer to drive us to Marseille bright and early tomorrow morning on their way to do their weekly city shopping for the restaurant. They are leaving at 6am. From there we can catch a morning train to Avignon, where our bikes will hopefully be waiting for us. It is amazing how they have planned out everything for us.

PHOTO 1: Van Gogh vineyard near Le Mas de Cotignac
PHOTO 2: Mike at waterfall
PHOTO 3: wild poppies
PHOTO 4: parking solution
PHOTO 5: lane at top of the town
PHOTO 6: "there are stones in the pathway"
PHOTO 7: back lane scene
PHOTO 8: Cotignac doorway
PHOTO 9: above Cotignac
PHOTO 10: cliffs on north edge of town
PHOTO 11: WWII plane wreck
PHOTO 12: cliffs and Cotignac from the east side
PHOTO 13: Philippe and Marcel at Notre Dame de Grace
PHOTO 14: Sillans Cascade
PHOTO 15: Notre Dame de Grace
PHOTO 16: village of Entrecasteaux
PHOTO 17: Entrecasteaux Chateau
PHOTO 18: fields of lavender