View Larger Map
Tuesday, July 2nd - Trier to Cochem, 6213 km
It's a short way downstream from Trier to Cochem as the crow flies. On the valley floor, the route is flat or slightly dropping, but beyond Trier the Mosel twists as ridiculously and inefficiently as ribbon candy. The steep banks grow taller, up to 200 metres high. The route is fun as I end up cycling in every direction. The
scenery is constantly changing as the sun streams in though the valley walls. Vineyards clothe the sunny south-facing slopes while the north-facing slopes are mostly in shadow. The wind is against me from the east today, but only when at the times as I head into it. Out of 
the wind, the sun is hot so I take off my helmet and strap it to my sleeping roll on top of my rear rack. 
After a couple hours of this I can't be slightly more than 10 km in a direct line from Trier. I stop for lunch near the village of Mulheim. There are many cycle tourists in this valley. As I am leaving, I meet two handsome lads from Mainz returning cycling home after an eight day tour. They are very friendly and invite me to cycle with them. I would very much like to, but they are just stopping for lunch and I am trying to keep a 20 km/hr average to reach Cochem before dark.
I have the same frustrating problem I had yesterday afternoon, with bike paths dead ending in the middle of fields. I have once again returned to riding on the road but I have already lost too much time. I stop for yogurt and juice in Bernkastel Kues as I am picking up some sunscreen. I reconsider what to do as my progress along the river is so slow that I may not reach Cochem before dark at my present rate.
Above the snaking river valley, there is a more direct route to Cochem. At the village of Urzig, at the northern extension of a river bend, I climb a steep road out of the valley that connects to that route. It is a hot day and the climb is strenuous. Once I reach the top, the east wind is more constant, but I no longer need to maintain a 20 km/hr average speed. The scenery is pleasant farmland and villages but not as dramatic as the valley. It takes two more hours to reach Cochem.
Cochem is also on the Mosel. The road drops in a circuitous route to the valley floor. A dramatic castle stands guard on a pinnacle above the town, which hugs the north bank of the river on either side of the pinnacle,150m below the castle. It is an inspiring sight. 
It's 4pm when I reach the town. Tourist Information directs me to a hostel on the south side of the river which has room. There seem to be a lot of cyclists at the hostel. Two Germans are checking in at the same time including Kristof, as stunningly handsome, blue-eyed, 17-year old blond with a slender build and defined pectorals. He is charming, intelligent, relaxed and mannerly - a deadly combination with his good looks. All this good scenery in one day is hard to handle. The two cyclists from Mainz check in around six. They go to dinner with me at an Italian place on our side of the river, with excellent views of the town and flood-lit castle on the other side. We are all staying in the same dorm room in the hostel, the two boys from Mainz across from me and Kristof sleep below me. I feel like a hungry man at a banquet who is not able to sample the food.
PHOTO 1: river boat on the Mosel
PHOTO 2: village on the Mosel
PHOTO 3: Lieser Castle, near Kues
PHOTO 4: Bernkastel-Kues
PHOTO 5: in Bernkastel-Kues
PHOTO 6: Landshut Castle near Kues
PHOTO 7: climbing up the slope above Urzig
PHOTO 8: Reichsburg Castle and Cochem
PHOTO 9: Cochem
No comments:
Post a Comment