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Monday, September 23rd - Kotor to Becici - 11,888 km
The forest fire has burned itself out for the most part, or at least the fire is much smaller this morning and higher on the mountainside. There is still a smoky haze hanging over the valley and one water bomber is still making flights to quench it for good. I am on the road by 9:30, leaving Kotor by the only way out of the valley other than returning to the entrance of the bay. Actually, there are two ways out but they both begin from the same road that goes south from Kotor. The main road switchbacks up to a low pass at 230 m and the south end of the valley, but at the pass another road splits off and continues to climb steadily up the mountainside south-east of Kotor. At 380 m, it climbs more gently as it traverses the east wall as it heads north, until it is almost directly over the town 450 m below it.
Here the wall is steep and the road makes a series of 17 tight switchbacks, each right above the other, until I am at 900 m (3000 ft) above the town. At each switchback there is an elevation sign, which keeps me motivated to reach the next one. This is the most incredible series of switchbacks I have ever encountered anywhere. I am sure there are many more dramatic climbs around the world but this one, with its low, intermittent stone guard walls, has my knees shaking whenever I look down.
The road maintains this height for four kilometres as it continues north. The peak of the mountain is still another 500 m above me. I cross a slight pass at 950 m as I
turn east away from the Bay of Kotor. The drops 100 m to cross a broad depression, and then begins to switchback again to cross a higher pass at 1100 m. Here at this higher elevation autumn is in full swing, with colours in most of the trees. 
The town or Cetinje is my reason for making this huge climb. Cetinje is the historical and spiritual centre of Montenegro, and once the seat for the country's only king, Nicholas I. When the Austrians or Turks invaded most of the country, only this high plateau remained independent. These days it is only a symbolic seat of government as the true seat is in Titograd, south of here. Cetinje is quite small, for a former national capital. It has about 10,000 people in the area. Although it has the highest rating in my Michelin Guide, there isn't much to see. I see a couple of interesting churches and pass by the Presidential Palace.
As I am coasting by a restaurant on my way out of town, I am waved over by three men having lunch at an outside table. They speak no English but they want to know where I have been and where I am going. I have learned I don't need to speak the language to communicate. They are thrilled by my responses and they each buy me a beer, a very strong 11% beer made in the Montenegrin city of Niksic. They are very insistent that I drink, and I do, fearing that I might offend them if I don't.
They return to their work and I pay my bill and set off again. I have a slight buzz from the beer (I only finished two) but the alcohol is slowing the delivery of oxygen to my muscles. It takes a huge effort to climb the 100 m hill to get out of town. Fortunately, it is mostly level or downhill from here.
Twelve kilometres further along, after a second low pass, the road descends rapidly to the sea. I am flying along singing the song in my head today, 'Unchained Melody' - "Lonely rivers flow, to the sea, to the sea, to the open arms of the see-ee-ee-e-ee-ea". From the top of the plateau when I first sea it is a drop of over 800 m and the views are stunning. When the road reaches a height of 200 m, it follows a ridge that juts out into the sea. At the end of the ridge, the road switchbacks down to the shore. To the west of the ridge lies Budva, a pristine, scenic town on a small coastal plain surrounded by mountains. To the east is another small town, Becici.
Budva is highly recommended in the guide, so I head there first. The epicentre of the great earthquake in 1979 was closer to Budva than Kotor. 400 buildings in the old town collapsed, leaving only 8 standing. As a result, relief aid and government rebuilding efforts were focused on Budva, which has been totally rebuilt. The town is now in mint condition, probably better looking than before the quake, while I could still see collapsed roofs and other earthquake damage in Kotor.
After touring Budva, I headed east around the ridge to Becici, a smaller tourist town with a beautiful, extensive beach. I book a room in a small hotel there and
settle in for the night. I find a restaurant along the boardwalk and have a pasta dinner. The horror of the past few days is fading, but when I stop cycling and being distracted by new sights it comes back in full. I feel profoundly lonely and adrift here looking at the beauty of this mountainous bay. I cannot seem to do anything to ease my anxiety. This may take a long while to heal.
PHOTO 1: switchbacks up the mountain leading out of Kotor
PHOTO 2: climbing the switchbacks, near the top
PHOTO 3: view over Kotor
PHOTO 4: crossing the mountains to Cetinje
PHOTO 5: autumn colours on the plateau before Cetinje
PHOTO 6: the royal city of Cetinje
PHOTO 7: Montenegrin signage
PHOTO 8: view from the plateau to Budva and the sea
PHOTO 9: in Budva
PHOTO 10: panorama of Budva
PHOTO 11: at the shore in Becici
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